A certain Northern reserve is characteristic of Veronique Branquinho's work, so it was a (mostly pleasant) surprise to find her jazzing things up for spring. Judy Garland's rendition of "Over the Rainbow" (as well as tracks by Elvis and the Bee Gees) were on the eclectic soundtrack; the models entered the Palais de la Porte Dorée space through sparkling beaded curtains; and there were tiered, beaded, and fringed jersey Charleston dresses on the runway. Tempered with Branquinho's customary restraint, these pieces worked. She also sent out Empire styles, and a standout ivory shift with a lyric fall at the back.

The decorative elements were balanced with the classics-with-a-twist Branquinho's customers crave. This season, she injected a sporty edge, meaning that a trench or a pin-striped Spencer jacket might be paired with a metallic, strapless A-line, or an oxford might top a pair of jogging pants. If the seventies-referencing knicker-length jumpsuits could have been edited out, the slouchy "me era" boots were a cool way to ground this dressier-than-usual outing.