Versace
MILAN, September 29, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Donatella Versace has a thing or two to teach the youngsters—and a few of the oldsters—about how to bring back the eighties. She hit that spot with a tour-de-force performance in the corsetry department of her show. First came a high-waist girdle-bikini, then boned basques set into liquid jersey, followed by shiny full-metal dresses with sharply faceted bras.There's a difference, though, between flagging up a trend for the sake of a showstopper and making clothes a woman can put on without excruciating agony or ridicule. Versace solved that with technology: The robo-woman metal shards are actually plastic. On the body, they weigh nothing. With that, she sealed the collection with a well-wrought Versace stamp, glancing at the past, but reflecting forward into the now.
The rest of the show—which steered clear of eighties theming—reinforced the feeling that Donatella is moving things on. Having personally reached a point of clarity and good health, she is working Versace toward a new sense of reality. The daywear dealt out the current short cocoon shapes and Empire dresses in a pared-back way. Even the prints—wavy, oversized seventies graphics—seemed relatively restrained. Compared to the scattered and sometimes slapdash performances of past seasons, this looked like another step toward reclaiming authority for the house founded by Gianni Versace. The figures concur, and that's credit to the emergence of his sister's womanly point of view.
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Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain Basso & Brooke Behnaz Sarafpour Belstaff Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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Danielle Scutt Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Josh Goot Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L.A.M.B. Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Toni Maticevski Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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