Vera Wang
NEW YORK, September 14, 2006
By
Today's lovely Vera Wang show made it clear why Kohl's courted the designer for two years and why she's poised to succeed in translating her vision to the moderate-priced clothes she'll design for its hundreds of department stores. Over the last few seasons Wang has expertly refined her signatures. You know a Vera jacket when you see it: the subtle sheen of the silk faille; the short, elbow-length sleeves; the blossoming volume below the bust; the rosette attached with offhand insouciance. She's a brand where other designers are collections of borrowed ideas.That's not to say that she didn't evolve for spring. There was a new balletic quality to the clothes that went beyond the pink rehearsal bar at the entrance to the runway. She played with transparency, a big spring motif, by encasing the lower half of a dress in a bubble of tulle, shrouding a sequined camisole with net, and showing cropped chiffon pants under tunics. She also worked layers, tweaking, for instance, dressed-up gold brocade by tossing a black cotton chemise over it.
But what was really interesting was the way she brought her own simple style of dressing to bear on the proceedings. Wang loves a legging and a big sweater. Today she showed fine-gauge cardigans covetable in their cool simplicity and skinny pants that added a casual element the collection formerly lacked. Practice for the Very Vera line that hits Kohl's a year from now? Yes or no, it all looked beautiful.
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