Over the past few seasons, Yigal Azrouël has redefined his aesthetic, jettisoning the too-proper occasion wear of yore and developing a feel for day dressing. For his spring show, presented at Bumble and bumble, the designer took a pair of classics—the white shirt and the tee—and twisted, tucked, draped, and layered them into covetable tough-chic staples that were worn with shrunken leather jackets and cropped drainpipes zippered at the ankle.

Evening was about flat-out glamour. There were short, slightly bubble-hemmed minis for the leggy set, and gowns of cascading fabric, in sand, ink, and black, that could be read as markers of this designer's progress.