September 12, 2006
"The spirit of the spring collection is one of young couture," explained Hanii Yoon and Gene Kang, and their claim was borne out by the quality of both fabric and construction on display. White-on-white dresses featured intricate embroidery and appliqużéd lace, and the designers worked bowstheir big idea for spring into a lot of the clothing, integrating them into their pieces rather than treating them as embellishments. To counter the frill factor, Y & Kei sent the models down the runway in Louise Brooks bobs (which, coincidentally, just happens to be the style a lot of the girls are wearing themselves this season). "This way it is not all too pretty," they explained.
Pretty, however, is what Y & Kei do, and this season they overdid it somewhat, with voluminous mille-feuille pleated blouses and soft dresses that at times suggested wedding cakes. In keeping with the feel of the season, the designers worked the pouf and the trapeze, most successfully in a series of pale coat-dresses and jackets in silk faille. Their "double A" silhouettea trapeze jacket paired with a mini pleated-taffeta skirtwas just too much, but the saccharine factor was thankfully vanquished by a Victorian-style blouse of cotton lace and the elegant closing evening gowns.