Y-3

NEW YORK, September 13, 2006
By Tim Blanks
On the surface, it might not have seemed like an ideal marriage—the arch avant-gardist and the mainstream sporting-goods giant—but Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas are growing into happy bed-partners. His contract has just been extended to 2010, and with this show, it was clear why. Yamamoto, whose play with volume looked fresh for the first time in a while with the menswear he showed in Paris in July, continued the roll at Pier 40 today, sending out a strong Y-3 collection against a money-no-object backdrop of neon-lit barges, moving walkways, and major celebrities.

The palette—black, white, navy, orange—was one of his own design signatures. So was the Edwardiana, incongruous in this context and all the more interesting for that. From the opener in asymmetrical black and white to the closing floor-sweeping tank dress, which looked like an ideal outfit for a day at the beach circa 1905, Yamamoto reiterated his idiosyncratic vision of the way a woman might like to conceal—or reveal—her body. This embraced everything from tiny, fitted tops to floor-length wrap skirts. A tank paired with baggy trousers hanging from black-and-white-striped suspenders was a good example of the way he is able to hone the fashionable urban edge on Adidas' sportswear. And he brought the whole kit and caboodle up to this century with a computerized floral print and a passage of outfits in a superstretch fabric that demanded nothing less than hyperathleticism. Yamamoto clearly knows that keeping things fresh is the secret to a happy marriage.

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