September 11, 2007 New York
The best pieces in his new collection were still the ones where form followed function: a jean jacket in white twill, an artist's work coat in blue linen, a waterproofed flight jacket, summer shirts in a plain check Kimmel called "napkin." The shades of chambray that dominated the color scheme compounded the utilitarian quotient in, for example, his signature piece, the ultrafunctional jumpsuit, which he showed either hooded or buttoned-down. And Cassady, who once worked on the railroad, provided inspiration for a standout "railroad" shirt, again in the chambray or a Casey Jones stripe. Where once he had the tentativeness of the tyro, Kimmel now has the confidence to stretch himself. Hence a cashmere group (a long-sleeved polo with shirt cuffs seemed like a good idea), and jackets tailored from a waffle-textured fabric Kimmel developed from a fifties scarf. "Fantasy rooted in a masculine context," is how the designer described them.