If Ennio Capasa wasn't quite a changed man (he is still claiming inspiration from the most far-out fringes of the music world), there was enough of a new spirit in his latest collection to suggest that his holiday detoxing in Kerala had indeed opened his mind a little. The easy layering, the languid drawstring pants, the loose-weave knits with deep V necklines all brought a bit of the relaxed beach vibe into the city. Even the requisite indie-rocker rig (narrow suit, tiny-collared shirt, skinny tie—can anyone see this look without thinking Hedi?) was roughened up so it had a little freshness. Think Nick Cave in beige, not black, and you'll get the picture.

All the same, Capasa admitted he had re-toxed since he got home, so it's still clearly dark, urban pleasures that appeal most to him. Anyone in search of such diversions would be appropriately dressed in a blouson covered with old silver sequins, or a lamé-lapelled jacket. And there were shirts with plackets of stitched-flat roses or frills or even oily feathers that cried out to poètes maudits everywhere.