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Dsquared²

MILAN, June 25, 2007
By Tim Blanks
The curtains parted to reveal two cars from ING Renault, current Formula One world champions. Though this unexplored corner of the sports world promised plenty of inspiration for the double entendres Dean and Dan Caten are partial to, they mostly resisted the temptation, which could be interpreted as a new seriousness of purpose now that the twins are the fulcrum of a reputed near $100 million business. But that doesn't mean they didn't make the most of their new arena. Pit-crew overalls were offered in leather and denim (thoughtfully labeled as Dsquared² Over All) and Formula One patches were applied to white jeans and jackets.

The Catens have taken to emphasizing the duality of the Dsquared² man by marching diametrically opposed characters down their catwalks: Here, it was the grease monkey and the professional. It's a smart move, because they've already perfected the rough-and-ready casualwear that first won them a fan base, and now it's the turn of the tailoring side of their business. Suits featured bespoke detailing (topstitching, working cuffs) but it was the mint-green blazer that was most seductive, simultaneously straight and way out there somewhere (and it was worn with purple desert boots, highlighting the collection's irresistibly errant footwear). But for all their attention to perfectly cut cover-ups, it will always be the belt of Apollo that is the Catens' favorite accessory. Here, it was highlighted to perfection in a range of swimwear that had American retailers smiling during a week when designers have, on the whole, ignored the beachy needs of their clientele.

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