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Givenchy

PARIS, June 28, 2007
By Tim Blanks
After the Ozwald Boateng interregnum, the Givenchy menswear collection is being put together by the house's resolutely anonymous design studio, so it was obviously a smart move to showcase the new season's offerings as a static presentation, rather than in a show where the slightness of the clothes would be spotlit. As it was, visitors were able to appreciate the subtle details: the satin band inside the turnup on trousers, the polka-dotted lining of a jacket, a tux fabricated from a mélange of cotton and paper, which was light enough for summer, but sure to hold its shape. One inspiration for the collection was apparently Blade Runner. There was a hint of sci-fi in the elegant dirigible of light that revolved over the milling throng. And, at a stretch, one could say Ridley Scott's movie also resonated in items that combined a sort of classic anonymity with a hint of looking forward. The biker jacket over a clear plastic K-Way, for example, or the polo that closed with a big black industrial zip. The studio's faith in its single silhouette suggested a quiet confidence, which is a good sign. Even better: a vibe that's (mercifully) less contrived than Boateng's.

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