June 27, 2007
After the Ozwald Boateng interregnum, the Givenchy menswear collection is being put together by the house's resolutely anonymous design studio, so it was obviously a smart move to showcase the new season's offerings as a static presentation, rather than in a show where the slightness of the clothes would be spotlit. As it was, visitors were able to appreciate the subtle details: the satin band inside the turnup on trousers, the polka-dotted lining of a jacket, a tux fabricated from a mélange of cotton and paper, which was light enough for summer, but sure to hold its shape. One inspiration for the collection was apparently Blade Runner. There was a hint of sci-fi in the elegant dirigible of light that revolved over the milling throng. And, at a stretch, one could say Ridley Scott's movie also resonated in items that combined a sort of classic anonymity with a hint of looking forward. The biker jacket over a clear plastic K-Way, for example, or the polo that closed with a big black industrial zip. The studio's faith in its single silhouette suggested a quiet confidence, which is a good sign. Even better: a vibe that's (mercifully) less contrived than Boateng's.