Queens of the Stone Age roaring through Feel Good Hit of the Summer would have been perfect for the rocktastic J.Lindeberg of old, but the song sounded a little old-school by the time it played out at the end of Johan's latest show. That's because he's moving on. It should have been obvious when his wife, Marcella, formerly the coolest of rock chicks, appeared in thick bangs and a long, green earth-mothery dress—these days, the inspiration is less the latest rangy guitar band than humankind's relationship with the planet. Yep, the Lindeberg subtext is now all about the environment, as evidenced by Johan's declared affection for Mexico's new crop of movie directors, who bridge urban jungle and sprawling desert in ways that move him deeply.

And, unlikely as it sounds, he managed to inject this sensibility into his collection. In addition to a color palette that drew on sand and stone, there was an organic quality to fine-gauge knits with a striated pattern, or loose layers of long over longer, or pioneer breeches over leggings. Add the odd linen tunic, a dropped crotch or two, and some dévoré, and it was rather like a cleaned-up version of the post-apocalyptic garb worn by the good guys in The Road Warrior. The models also wore unlaced desert boots and pins of quartz, again suggestive of the Outback. When more overt urbanwear inserted itself in the form of suits as shiny as gasoline on water, it was almost a jarring return to the fashion world Johan and Marcella used to inhabit. Guess it's hard to really leave it all behind.