Tony Melillo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 6, 2007
By Tim Blanks
The Velvet Underground's Heroin is a perversely gorgeous celebration of nothingness, the wickedest "why?" in pop. So its choice as the soundtrack for Tony Melillo's debut runway presentation inevitably sparked other questions. Why, for example, would Melillo, a much-loved fixture on the New York fashion scene (if the turnout of high-octane supporters was any indication), choose to take such a big step in his career with a collection so minimal to the point of nothingness? Or was nothingness actually the point? When the music cut out for a while, it could almost have been deliberateenjoy the silence.Melillo dressed his show with a hymn of praise to "hybrids," men whose personal style is so acute they can transmogrify the most basic classic with an effortless touch or two. And they'd need that magic touch with items this subdued: a black jacket with matching shorts, a cardigan, Bermudas, a zipped hoodie, drawstring pants, a single-buttoned blazer. The outfits had a slack feel that suggested students sharing clothes. A white T-shirt and black pants? How's that for a fashion critique of the essential banality of the human condition? The "hybrid" theme was tentatively present in combos like a gabardine blazer and bike shorts that might have been black velveteen (would that it were so), but in the end, it was all so curiously low-key that, with the Velvets fading away into the ether, one couldn't help but return to their original question.
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Spring 2008 Menswear
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Adam Kimmel Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Band of Outsiders Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Cerruti Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hermès -
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J.Lindeberg Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc by Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Number (N)ine -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Tommy Hilfiger Tony Melillo Trovata -
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Valentino Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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