Ann Demeulemeester
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 2, 2007
By Sarah Mower
Ann Demeulemeester, to the relief of her many followers, is by nature a trend refusenik. She carved out her aesthetic—that slouchy, layered, definitively Belgian thing—long ago, but still, there's always something subtly permeable about her parameters. This Spring, there's a floppy flowiness to her masculine-feminine design that picks up a sense of the thirties, and plays on bold stripes, fringing, feathers, and languid washed satin.All this, of course, happens within the established template of Demeulemeester's tailoring—monochromatic soft linen coat jackets, elongated vests, and pants. This season, she's worked up a doable translation of a jodhpur and also turned her attention to the new wide-legged satin pajama trouser of the Marlene-gone-modern kind. Something of the glam, playful, and luxurious has even filtered in along the way. There are cock-feather borders on vests, a hint of showgirl razzmatazz in the fringed shorts and flapper shifts, and, if you look very closely among the multiple chains strung around the models' necks, a few transparent lockets filled with crystalline grains that are actually real diamonds—evidence of Demeulemeester's first foray into fine jewelry.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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