Asking your audience to descend a steep, treacherous staircase in the main arena at the Palais Omnisports Paris Bercy in their stiletto heels is no way to endear yourself. But who were we to complain? An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx sent their models down those same stairs, with spotlights shining on them to boot.

The first group of girls wore clear plastic trenches and macs, some lined in nude jersey, others flashing the retro bras and hip-hugging briefs that are the Belgian duo's stock in trade. Lingerie touches were sprinkled throughout: Fine-gauge sweaters came with built-in bra cups, cowl-neck halter tops left the models' backs exposed. (There were also bustiers over puff-sleeve blouses, but these were comparative duds—bulky and hardly sexy.)

Some of the best pieces were tailored: boxy jackets with paillette-covered lapels, trim shirtdresses nipped at the waist with wide patent belts, and black or white button-downs worn with matching full trousers cropped above the ankle. As a contrast, there were also some of-the-moment draped jersey dresses, the prettiest in pale lemon yellow. It all added up to a strong collection for this husband-wife team… and we forgive them for the stairs.