September 04, 2007 New York
In a curiously dark (though stylish) turn for Spring, Herchcovitch trained his scissors on the tuxedo, carefully dismantling it and stripping it for parts. "I want to transform the classic men's wardrobe, but in a very feminine way, forgetting about the clichés," said the designer backstage. It's a challenging agenda to set, considering that the masculine/feminine theme is well-trodden ground. But Herchcovitch managed an original take, splicing classic formalwear elements with punk details and flashes of crimson and chartreuse for added edge. It was best seen in tailored looks, such as a sleeveless waistcoat over a rolled-sleeve T-shirt and pegged pants, or a slouchy washed-silk tuxedo dress. These were miles ahead of the frothy, cummerbunded cocktail frocks that closed the show. They rounded out Herchcovitch's concept but probably won't make it into the closets of Lezark and company.