A fashion mash-up artist of boundless enthusiasm, Anna Sui picked Busby Berkeley musicals and Biba as her Spring influences. Mixed together, they produced one of her most dressed-up collections in seasons: all acid-bright sequins, neon prints, and silvery feathers. Adding to the fun was a chorus line of models in short punky wigs or Manic Panic streaks, wearing platform sandals à la Terry de Havilland.

The show began with high-waist shorts and a tie-front blouse topped by a net bolero that evoked Jean Harlow. Next was a glen-plaid jumpsuit worn with a matching jacket and a print top that was pure Barbara Hulanicki. An eclectic parade of nail-head embroidered boleros and bathing suits, color-blocked matte jersey frocks, and striped chiffon onesies followed. By the end there were showgirl dresses in mesh decorated with metallic paillettes and plumes. If the sheer numbers didn't seem very wearable, Sui balanced them with an extensive array of little silk shirtwaist dresses with puff sleeves and hems ending several sexy inches above the knee. How does it all fit in with the rest of the season? With the seventies quickly becoming a recurrent motif, Sui's show looked on the money.