BCBG Max Azria
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 5, 2007
By Meenal Mistry
"We just decided to strip everything away," said Lubov Azria backstage after the BCBG Max Azria show. "Last season was very dark, so we went toward the light."And so, out went the slightly witchy trappings of Fall, and in swept yard upon yard of airy organza, sheer tulle, and liquid jersey. The Azrias played with a familiar feminine dichotomy: the lady and the tramp. The former was a real grown-up in belted silhouettes—no infantile tent dresses here. She demurely kept her hems below the knee and often wielded an envelope clutch. The latter favored minidresses with bustier tops and flippy skirts (some veering dangerously close to lingerie territory) that nodded to the grand master of sexed-up fashion, Azzedine Alaïa. According to Mrs. Azria, customers will want to tag-team the looks depending on their varying moods. It's true enough that we dress to suit our mindsets each morning, but here the two extremes were a bit jarring.
The fresh new mood chez Azria did shine through in a palette of breezy pales and cool, washed neutrals. However, the show's grander themes of "luminosity" and "layers of transparency" at times got the best of them. It's safe to bet that a sheer, layered trench with printed patch pockets won't ever see the fluorescent light of a department store. Still, come spring there will be more than enough of the pretty dresses that are the collection's bread and butter to please its fans, no matter who they might want to be that day.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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