It's always a bit of challenge for Ennio Capasa when fashion moves in a romantic direction, as it's doing right now. The designer, who is making a point of celebrating his 21st anniversary in business this year (why 21, exactly? Its a lucky number, he says), is at his best when he's working along sharp, sexy lines.

For Spring, he tried to resolve his dilemma by going Goa: "A cool and chic traveler after a long journey to India returns home," read the show notes. Instead of attempting clothes for her voyage, though, Capasa smartly set about designing for her life after the trip was over. These were pieces aimed at urban sophisticates, though touched by light strokes à l'indienne, i.e., rich jewel tones (persimmon and hot pink, Vreeland's "navy blue of India") and softened shapes. A khaki suit with long flared pants came piped at the waist with two stripes of citrine, a short coat borrowed sporty details from mountain anoraks (her subcontinental sojourn included a trek through the Himalayas), and dresses were wrapped and draped from one shoulder in the style of saris.

The sheer fabrics present Capasa with the same problem other designers are facing this season: Back home in the real world, there's little room for transparency on city sidewalks and in office elevators. But an amethyst silk dress sashed at the waist and cut short above the knee would make a fine addition to a downtown girl's closet long after the scent of sandalwood has faded.