Stærk
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 7, 2007
By Meenal Mistry
After Danish designer Camilla Stærk moved here from London last year, she found herself screening and rescreening some of her favorite Woody Allen films, in particular Manhattan and Stardust Memories. And from those classic celluloid New York stories, she extracted three distinct Spring muses: the sweetly virginal Mariel Hemingway; the tough, cerebral Meryl Streep; and the sexy but complex Charlotte Rampling. You could trace those sources through 21 looks, the emotional range of which went from the girlish innocence of a white shirtdress and Day-Glo shorts to the dark sophistication of an oversized tuxedo-jacket-cum-dress and a shiny black waxed-canvas trench. The real excitement of Stærk's show at Scandinavia House, though, wasn't in watching the character evolution but, rather, the designer's.Stærk's subversively minimal vision comes more clearly into focus each season. It's a treat to recognize the designer's hallmarks: pale gray leather, unexpected vivid flashes of color, an elegantly attenuated racer back. Amid these there snaked a lighter, more casual thread, courtesy of colorful checked cottons—a reflection, perhaps, of the sportswear influence of her adopted home. Though Stærk admitted to a tough year (the result of setting up a small business in a new country), this collection proved the effort has been worth it.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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