Derercuny
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 28, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
The Derercuny program notes explained that designer Mina Lee had "embraced geometry as the inspiration of a sensual and refined femininity." Loosely translated, that meant she used large origami-like crowns as decoration on her dresses and jackets. Fair enough. Even Dolce & Gabbana embraced artfulness this season, and origami has certainly been in the air. But Lee's theme eventually got the better of her. The streamers of bow-tied ribbons that decorated some pieces, waist to hemline, or that functioned as underskirts or as scarves, were rather cloying. Ditto the oversize petal-like appendages on a trapeze dress. It's too bad, because there were things here to like: an easy, short, boxy black and green color-blocked slipdress; an L.B.D. with a mini capelet that tied in the middle of the chest, creating a neat, nipped silhouette; or a creamy lace bib-front blouse worn with pants that had a subtle jodhpur flair to them.Lee's sophomore effort didn't pull in as many curiosity seekers as her runway debut did last season. Of course, showing on the morning after Versace unofficially closed the Milan season didn't help. But to hold on to the believers who did show up, she may want to temper her urge to overembellish and instead let her eye for cut and line speak for itself.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
