From the first look, a cream-colored trapeze peasant dress with gold lace at the hip-high hem, it was clear that Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana would be exploring their hippie sides for Spring (the piles of black-and-white TVs that flashed D&G ads at the back of the runway and Michael Jackson's Don't Stop 'Til You Get Enough on the soundtrack notwithstanding). The show's arts-and-crafts-y theme came across in patchwork denims, a short shift appliquéd all over with silk flowers, and a finale of floral-print smocks, caftans, and tent dresses.

This being D&G, there was a fair amount of glam stuff, too: bronze croc-look lamé jackets and minis, flared pants studded with gold and crystal, and borrowed-from-the-boudoir nude-and-fuchsia chiffon dresses. But all this was cut with nouveau-preppy chambray button-downs and cuff shorts, belted fine-gauge cardigans, of-the-moment wide-leg jeans, and even a photo-print of a horsey Fair Isle sweater. If it sounds like a mad mix, it was—but one in keeping with the season's boho seventies leanings. What's more, it was a surprisingly fresh hit of sweetness from a brand that has sometimes ventured too far into sexpot territory in the past.