Dsquared²
MILAN, September 27, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
The Dsquared² show started with the sound of an engine revving up. A curtain parted and out came an American muscle car driven by a bare-chested young man. In the backseat was the pop sensation Rihanna, she of the catchy summer hit Umbrella. After a pass or two around her ride and a final toss of the keys to her buff chauffeur, she took to the runway for a very believable turn as a top model, getting plenty of mileage out of a black slip that revealed her toned legs and cantilevered her twin V8s up toward her clavicles.It was a lot of skin for a 9 a.m. show, but as far as a Dan and Dean Caten affair goes, it was pretty standard stuff—and relatively toned down, after last season's construction-worker romp. Beyond the body-shop props, the twins' theme, loosely, was party girls and the grease monkeys who love them. Hence the crystal-encrusted necklines on short halter dresses, the sheer caftans accessorized with a brandished cigarette, and the cutout jersey dresses so revealing that the models tugged at them to keep things decent—this all for the edification of the half-naked mechanics at the far end of the runway.
It wasn't all trash and vaudeville, though. Non-theme-y outerwear pieces like a leather pod coat and a yellow trapeze jacket looked like they'll have legs off the runway. Those are the kind of items that have earned the Catens a place in the hearts of retailers. But, of course, that's not the first thing people come to a Dsquared² show for. They come for the theater—the cheap yet satisfying thrills that a runway sighting of a star like Rihanna can provide.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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