Dsquared²

MILAN, September 27, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
The Dsquared² show started with the sound of an engine revving up. A curtain parted and out came an American muscle car driven by a bare-chested young man. In the backseat was the pop sensation Rihanna, she of the catchy summer hit Umbrella. After a pass or two around her ride and a final toss of the keys to her buff chauffeur, she took to the runway for a very believable turn as a top model, getting plenty of mileage out of a black slip that revealed her toned legs and cantilevered her twin V8s up toward her clavicles.

It was a lot of skin for a 9 a.m. show, but as far as a Dan and Dean Caten affair goes, it was pretty standard stuff—and relatively toned down, after last season's construction-worker romp. Beyond the body-shop props, the twins' theme, loosely, was party girls and the grease monkeys who love them. Hence the crystal-encrusted necklines on short halter dresses, the sheer caftans accessorized with a brandished cigarette, and the cutout jersey dresses so revealing that the models tugged at them to keep things decent—this all for the edification of the half-naked mechanics at the far end of the runway.

It wasn't all trash and vaudeville, though. Non-theme-y outerwear pieces like a leather pod coat and a yellow trapeze jacket looked like they'll have legs off the runway. Those are the kind of items that have earned the Catens a place in the hearts of retailers. But, of course, that's not the first thing people come to a Dsquared² show for. They come for the theater—the cheap yet satisfying thrills that a runway sighting of a star like Rihanna can provide.

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