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Etro

MILAN, September 25, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
With the seventies back on the runways, Veronica Etro is back in her element. A bohemian with a luxe magpie aesthetic, she let her freak flag fly.

The first look was a slim belted coat with eccentric lapels covered in dense loops of red yarn, worn with sporty color-block leggings. From there, she delved into cargo jackets and pants paired with filmy chiffon tops or rugby-stripe sweaters, multicolor hippie-chic crochet dresses, cutaway military jackets with frogging and contrast trim, and silk caftans printed front and center with talismanic agates. To call it kaleidoscopic would be an understatement.

The show¿s dominant silhouette was a fitted torso—a studded leather vest, say, topping an earth-toned silk tee—and a short, flaring skirt. At the middle were belts decorated with all manner of tassels, embroideries, and pompoms, elements that reappeared on shoes and bags. At times, it was all too costumey; take, for instance, a new-age long jersey tank dress with deep silver fringing at the neckline. But peel back Etro¿s many layers and you reveal pieces that are not only on-message for the season (ethnic prints, tie-dyes, tiny leather jackets), but also, and this is more important, desirable.

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