Salvatore Ferragamo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 26, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
This was Graeme Black's last collection for Salvatore Ferragamo; he¿s leaving to devote himself to his solo line. To be fair, setting a ready-to-wear direction for a label best known for its grosgrain ribbon flats is no easy task. But hopscotching back through the decades—as Black had tended to do during his tenure—probably wasn't the best tack.For Spring, he seized on the seventies. Mixed in with the more restrained Me Decade pieces (high-waisted, wide-legged trousers and flaring A-line skirts) were Halston jersey dresses, beachy caftans, and jumpsuits, the last in wide navy-and-white stripes or disco sequins.
The show was not without its better moments. Floor-grazing sheer shirtdresses had stature, and the turquoise stone strap of a finale gown was a rich touch. But here's hoping that when Cristina Ortiz steps into the driver's seat, she pushes Ferragamo further forward. The clothes could stand to be more distinctive, more than simply a backdrop for handbags and shoes. Perhaps she can zero in on the luxury factor, like Tomas Maier has done at Bottega Veneta (which not so long ago, you'll recall, was little more than an accessories company with a specialty in woven leather bags).
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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