Givenchy
PARIS, October 3, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
Riccardo Tisci made real strides with his last ready-to-wear show. There were a number of stylish early adopters in Givenchy numbers straight off that runway in today's front row—always a good way to judge a collection's success. But Spring, as it unfolded, found him up to some of his old tricks, laying on far more detail than his otherwise accomplished tailored suiting pieces and right-for-this-season draped asymmetric dresses could handle.Going by the knee-high gladiator sandals and utilitarian leather belt bags and fanny packs, not to mention the models' bleached eyebrows, Tisci's theme seemed to be warrior women, a motif he also referenced at his recent couture show. That would explain the large grommets on everything from sturdy blazers to willowy chiffon (it must be said that using such heavy hardware on so delicate a material is pretty impractical, if not plain silly). If those looks reflected his theme, the oversize polka dots on bubble dresses and the shiny black pearls that studded a waistcoat were more of a leap.
The show ended on a high note, though. The designer's unadorned, faintly military jackets, bustiers, and skirts in rugged brown leather revealed that, yes, there is a cool, controlled sense of minimalism lurking underneath all that other stuff. It's a sensibility Tisci should nurture.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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