Helmut Lang
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 10, 2007
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
The re-launch of Helmut Lang, now owned by Link Theory Holdings, is as a contemporary—that is, more affordable—line, as opposed to a luxury one. Michael and Nicole Colovos, the founders of Habitual jeans, were tapped to get the job done some three years ago. For their first bona fide runway show, this week, Nicole said that she and her partner had decided to concentrate on "modern fabrics and architectural lines." In other words, they decided to stay true to the soul of the brand.The collection stuck to the script: Out came the requisite straps and harnesses; also, better-than-basic tanks for layering, sharp narrow pants, slick blazer jackets, and monochrome color schemes. Some of the fabrics looked high-tech but actually were made mostly of natural fibers, woven and coated in innovative ways (though some less-structured looks were made up in a taffeta that crinkled like a black plastic deli bag). A sleeveless hoodie in glazed leather nodded to Spring's active trend.
The attitude was hard-edged, but not menacing. In fact, an asymmetrical pool blue dress with attached swag had romance to it. The minimalist palette of white, slate, black, and blue, was based, in part, on the Colovoses' study, Michael said, of ice and its different "colors, layers, structures, and forms." Cool enough…and the Colovoses are obviously warming to their assignment.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fashion East Fendi -
G
Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
I
Iceberg -
J
J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
K
Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
O
Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
W
Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
