Iceberg's Spring collection keyed into the nineties body-con trend that's still reverberating out from London. Clingy jersey dresses, with cutouts at the hips or down the back, revealed more than they concealed. Likewise the high-waisted shorts that were alternately paired with bell-sleeve blouses in a high-metallic sheen or boxier cropped sweaters. And then there was the sequined, zip-front all-in-one that closed the show.

All in all, this is probably a smart way to lure that sweet-spot shopper, one who has a tight body to show off and money to burn. (The geometric plastic paillettes that decorated a lot of the evening numbers surely won't come cheap.) But will the same client go for the more challenging outerwear? Coats, usually a strong suit at this Italian label, came in kimono cuts with huge, statement-making lantern sleeves. It's a look very much in keeping with the Eastern silhouettes influencing the Milan shows, but their viability at retail is less of a sure thing.