Jason Wu
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 5, 2007
By Joanna Rodger
The Wu label, now in its fourth season, is slowly crystallizing into the sort worn by a well-groomed young lady with a penchant for immaculate details, the kind of girl who could be a future couture customer if she plays her career (or matrimonial) cards right. Grace Kelly is by now a bit of a careworn reference in the fashion world, but that's just who Wu's Spring show brought to mind: a contemporary version of the movie icon as she appeared in Rear Window.Wu played to his customer with a pretty and well-constructed collection, keeping his waists high (and punctuated with narrow patent belts), his silhouettes lean (save for a few circle skirts of the 1950's-Kelly ilk), and his shapes classic (the sheath, the trench, the strapless tea-length cocktail dress). For the first time, he introduced pattern to his previously more restrained color palette, with hand-painted prints inspired by René Gruau, the illustrator eulogized in The Guardian as the "chief visualiser" to the great couturier Christian Dior. Bold and graphic, these had a strong impact in cherry red, acid yellow, and electric blue.
The show closed with a series of evening gowns, the most impressive of which was a mottled-gray chiffon number hand-sewn from a tremendous 55 yards of fabric, all cut on the bias. It was a demonstration of craftsmanship that not many twentysomething designers could have pulled off.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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