"I was inspired by the anatomical buildings of the architect Santiago Calatrava," said Jasmine Al Fayed at her show. A lofty reference for a young designer who's best known for her louche cocktail dresses—and for being the daughter of Harrods owner Mohamed Al Fayed. But then, that's not the only change at the house of Jasmine Di Milo. First off, Al Fayed has switched from a late-night show to a civilized all-day affair at the Ritz. Then there's the redesigned label affixed to her creations—it's streamlined and simple, instead of dark and goth. And there was improvement in the clothes themselves. The collection is still rather narrowly focused on after-dark looks, but in place of flashy sequins and trashy sheer numbers, there were goddess gowns, trapezes, and sexy bandage dresses à la Hervé Léger. A few sportswear pieces like satin bombers even made it into the lineup. You can't call it high fashion yet, but you can say Al Fayed is growing up.