Jeremy Laing
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 6, 2007
By Joanna Rodger
Laing is a designer with an architect's sensibility, and his clothes sheath the body in sweeping planes and facets constructed with the technical precision of a blueprint. This season, his third, he cited "apparitions of light" as his inspiration: fireworks, the northern lights, and lens flares (the enigmatic flashes accidentally captured sometimes in photographs). Those are some pretty ephemeral effects to tease out of fabric and thread, and the only reference obvious enough to be picked up on by the naked eye was the pyrotechnic one: a spectacular fireworks print created by the artist Karen Azoulay.Whether or not Laing's luminous conceits were tangibly interpreted, the clothes looked great. The designer worked those structured folds to clever effect, creating both slim and voluminous silhouettes out of the high-tech fabrics he loves. "Wedges" folded into the back seaming of a dress were wrapped around to the front, magically inverting to create a horizontal ruffle across the bodice. A deep, asymmetrical fold was slashed across the length of a belted sack dress, leaving one side tented and the other slim as a blade of grass. For a softer air, Laing cut the same shapes from washed silk, in light gray, butter yellow, and midnight blue.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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