How many designers could boast that costumer Arianne Phillips (3:10 to Yuma, Walk the Line) styled their debut show, that Mark Seliger (Vanity Fair, Rolling Stone) was there to shoot pictures, or that music from PJ Harvey's to-be-released album played on the soundtrack? Only one.

Those new to the two-year-old line might expect retro looks from Rodriguez, the well-connected co-owner of the high-end vintage mecca Resurrection. But actually "modern and dynamic" was her goal, she said backstage as Tara Subkoff, Matt Damhave, Waris Ahluwalia, Jessica Joffe, and Neuromance's Cynthia Mittweg milled around.

Those in the know will have recognized a few of Rodriguez's conceits from previous outings, but there was some news, too. Figure-hugging sheaths resonated with the body-con feeling of the season. Swingy, coquettish dresses with cheery polka dots hit her target of "fun, festive, and bright." Le Smoking looks closed the show. Rodriguez could have spread her wings a little farther, though. There was a lingering suspicion that the collection didn't merit a runway show so much as an in-crowd party at which to shine.