Kris Van Assche
September 30, 2007 Paris
Van Assche's love of all things Latin American also helped feminize the look. Frida Kahlo was referenced in the emphatic eyebrows and slicked-back, orchid-adorned hair (and in the parrot motif embroidered on crisp cottons that could otherwise double as bedsheets). Elsewhere, the designer did pretty well at sublimating such an obvious influence. Mexico provided the sulfurous yellow, sky blue, acid orange, and Catholic white of his palette; it also echoed in the floor-sweeping silk skirts and in the elasticized necklines and tied waists of voluminous smocks. But irrespective of those touches, the collection could be read, simply, as a contemporary take on slouchy ease. Case in point: Van Assche likes to put pockets in everything, even the most billowing skirt, so hands always have a place to hide.