For Spring, Christophe Lemaire dispensed with the gimmicks of recent seasons and, in the process, showed he does have what it takes to update a classic. Lacoste is fêting its 75th anniversary, and the creative director started his show off with a trip to the company's birthplace: 1930's Basque country. Working almost exclusively in white, with red and black trims, he kept things simple, fresh, and of course sporty. He sent out pleat-skirted tennis dresses; a long, gauzy, belted djellaba; and a sack skirt in terrycloth—accessorizing these looks with wide-brimmed straw hats and platform espadrilles.

In a middle section reminiscent of the washed-out photos of David Hamilton, Lemaire transitioned to the sun-bleached seventies. This season's ubiquitous high-waisted wide-leg pant was done in a sun-faded denim. That same fabric made up a simple tunic, worn over a sliver of a bikini bottom, and a sleeveless dress, left mostly unbuttoned for a leggy informality. There followed a final grouping that was bright, graphic, and nautical in feel, featuring stripes and large polka dots inspired by marine flags. Altogether, this was a strong showing, and it suggested that, at 75, the company is in rude good health.