We all know La Perla is a lingerie company. So why does Alessandro Dell'Acqua, who quietly designs the label's ready-to-wear collection, feel the need to constantly remind us of the fact?

Two looks, in particular, from the Spring show stand out for their gimmickry. The first was an otherwise innocuously pretty trapeze dress in lavender-and-gray chiffon, topped by a strapless nude-mesh bra. The second was a feather-bustier cocktail dress trussed up with exposed whaleboning in a snakeskin print. But those weren't the only pieces that were overthought: High-tech holographic fabrics were decorated with incongruous baroque soutache embroideries, while feathers edged not only the bustlines of evening numbers but also the hems of cropped jackets. As for the swimsuits, with all their superfluous straps, they were just fetish-y.

When Dell'Acqua exercised a bit of restraint, things looked up. A navy silk mikado dress that tented to the knees and was topped by an unadorned short-sleeve jacket was ladylike and sophisticated. A slouchy white pullover sweater added an offhand, cool element to an allover-feathered skirt. More ease, less tease, please.