Lela Rose
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 6, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
"Katharine Hepburn meets Audrey Hepburn," is how Rose described her Spring look. What, exactly, does that mean? A new sportiness, for starters. The show's standout piece was a bottle-green belted taffeta anorak coat-dress—hardly a new concept, but one that added a peppy zip to the other, more elegant, fare. The same silhouette topped a strapless, floor-length dress with embroidery at the hem, just the thing for a black-tie garden party.The Katharine part of the concept meant more pants than usual on her runway. Rose called them knickers, cut them in cotton canvas or dungaree twill full to just below the knee, and paired them with long tanks or tunics. Audrey came forward in the form of a sweetly feminine day dress in a subtle polka dot; and, for evening, slim, skimming cocktail numbers in Matisse-bright silks with scalloped hems.
Rose loves texture. She experimented this season by layering corded or pinwheel lace over linen sackcloth in contrasting colors. "How do you make burlap couture?" was the challenge behind a strapless persimmon-and-ginger number. It¿s the sort of High WASP, lo-fi concept that would have appealed to Kate the Great and, very likely, will to the swans of Park Avenue.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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