Luca Luca
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 10, 2007
By Meenal Mistry
Luca Orlandi boarded the translucence train that is currently making all local stops down Seventh Avenue. Organdy and chiffon are everywhere, and Orlandi wanted to explore transparency, too. He was inspired in this endeavor, he said, by the luminous panels of stained glass.The collection was full of body-skimming dresses in gauzy, milky sherbet colors. After an almost blindingly blingy Fall, this lineup was thankfully lower key. Instead of beading, he worked with texture: skinny ruffles snaking down the seams of a chiffon dress or the crocheted silk banding on the waist of a gown. Elsewhere he used subtle embroideries. When he did embellish more boldly, he was in experimental mode. A sea-foam chiffon dress had vertical pleats that played hide-and-seek with the beaded sparkle underneath. Another shift with pleated taffeta squares used the same peekaboo trick.
It's well established that the ladies love Luca. The social contingent in this season's front row included Ivanka Trump, Tinsley Mortimer, Bettina Zilkha, and Coralie Charriol Paul. They got what they came for: lovely dresses for lunches at Le Bilboquet and La Goulue. But even his fans might have appreciated a bit more freshness. Aside from the touch of whimsy provided by a scarf print of pearls, there was little here to shake things up when the clock strikes one on Madison Avenue.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
