MaxMara
MILAN, September 27, 2007
By Sarah Mower
MaxMara's designers read the memo about this season's trends—Japanese influences, deconstructed tailoring, jumpsuits, and pajama suits—then went off and did their own thing with them. What emerged took an early-eighties street-style turn: something from the moment when Comme des Garçons was new, Jean Paul Gaultier was emerging, and London's Buffalo Girls were dressing in an androgynous-rocker kind of way. It fits MaxMara's agenda to find a new raison d'être for a jacket, coat, and suit, of course—and this time the team worked it out by cutting jackets with volume in the back; making a gray pinstripe suit with a forties shoulder, nipped waist, and calf-length skirt; and paring back the neckline of a narrow belted trench. All this made sense, but the dippy-hemlined skirts à la Comme circa 1985 were a reference too clunky to look convincing.As for the jumpsuits, well, MaxMara can claim to have been vindicated on that one. The house has been doing them for a couple of seasons already, and now, as so many others are piling in with them, MaxMara has switched its overalls from military khakis into black satin. Fair enough, but after that transition into glammier fabrication the impetus petered out. After all, how does a boy-girl dress for evening? Would she wear an ice blue charmeuse pajama suit? It was a question that left the show dangling on a bit of an odd note—like the hemline that had mysteriously been left hanging over one ankle.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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