If you thought of Nadia Comaneci when you saw the red, blue, and silver-star leotard on the mannequin that greeted you at the Bowery Hotel, then you were on Alexander McQueen's wavelength. The Olympics were the designer's subtle, and sometimes not so subtle, theme for his secondary line, now in its fourth season. That meant a sporty green parka with a drawstring waist and patent racing stripes, a short-sleeve red "warm-up" shirt jacket worn with a coated-denim skirt, and a poster-print romper. Taken to extremes, it translated into a dress or a skirt with colorful plastic rings—à la the Olympic symbol—inserted between curving seams. Meanwhile, a number of pieces—sweater tank, button-down, and perforated-leather cape—were decorated with what could have been some of Keith Haring's more provocative squiggles.

In other words, it was edgy, but not pod-dress-and-leather-leggings edgy. Which means it pleases both McQueen and his retailers.