A tuxedo and a strapless gown, gift-wrapped with a bow at the waist, both in shocking pink, were the highlights, showcasing Martin Grant's twin talents for sharp yet feminine tailoring and dressmaking with a couturier's attention to detail. You could even call these items classics—chez Grant, that's not a naughty word.

Other pieces that fit the description included a single-button, double-breasted leather jacket with a stand-up collar and furled lapels; a blouson shirtdress with oversize buttons, tied waist, and corded cap sleeves; and a long silver dress with a narrow column of a skirt and a gathered bodice that draped from rolled shoulders. The last two had a subtle Asian sensibility that was echoed in the models' ironed and upswept hair. A brown-and-pink floral dress was more of-the-moment, but still well within the designer's elegant vocabulary.

Points off, though, for the patent short shorts. One pair sends a message about a sportif summer; many pairs suggest that Grant didn't work hard enough to come up with more viable below-the-waist options.