Moschino

MILAN, September 25, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
The Moschino girls stepped through the parted skirts of a giant, plaster eighteenth-century ball gown to stalk the runway, but if you were looking for clues as to where the collection would go, the backdrop was hardly a helpful hint. This wouldn't be a rococo romp (although there were a fair amount of bows—plastic, naturally, in the house's signature kitsch style). Instead, the main references seemed to be an unlikely mélange of Chanelissime, surrealism, and a touch of the sportif.

Starting things off was a silvery gray crochet-ribbon skirtsuit, accessorized with a major silver-link necklace. The chain motif reappeared as trim on boxy little Coco-esque jackets, some of which were wackily shown inside out with the familiar Moschino label decorating the nape of the neck. The surrealism came through in giant metal snaps on a red short-sleeve trapeze coat, and in clear plastic rain jackets punched out in eyelet patterns—definitely not waterproof. As for the sporty side of things, there were evening anoraks in taffeta and a healthy handful of rompers and onesies.

What to make of it all? It's not entirely clear Rosella Jardini and team were thinking clearly themselves. But that doesn't mean the show didn't offer a few moments of meaningless fun.

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