September 16, 2007 London
But before the squeamish send up the red flags, let's pretend we haven't been informed about Schwab's fascination with early anatomical dissection manuals and microphotography of bone and viscera. Scrub that prior knowledge, and what's left is a collection of scrolled-back, sculptural black body braces over lovely pink-, yellow-, and black-hued fluid prints: modern things that are young, strong, and feminine all at the same time. These were followed by a multitude of dresses, some in draped jersey, others in fluttery silk, that mark a distinct move toward prettiness, as well as a more forgiving fit. One such dress had a stunning back view, in which a jacket was elegantly sliced open to reveal a zipper spine and black pearls denoting ribs beneath. Others came with external body jewelry derived from internal structures of veins and nerves, though never to shock effect. As a creamy crinkled dress, delicately strung over with pearls, left the runway, it was clear that Schwab had managed to sublimate all of his academic research into something that could really add to the sum of joy of smart, young womanhood.