Noir
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 8, 2007
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
The line was founded two years ago by Peter Ingwersen, a Dane whose mission is to "create meaningfulness in the luxury segment." You hear a lot of hoo-ha these days about how this or that designer is going to save the world one anorak at a time, but this one is putting his money where his mouth is. Igwersen not only purchases goods that support sustainable businesses in developing nations (about 70 percent of the line was made from certifiable materials), but he's also developing a collection of organic cottons in Uganda. (The new fabric brand, called Illuminati II, is set to launch next year.)But, though virtuous, there is nothing crunchy or goody-two-shoes about Noir. We're not talking T-shirts here. In the past, in fact, Ingwersen—who wove in his new line of see-through lingerie on this week's runway—has skewed things a bit too far in the fetish direction. However, his Manhattan debut was reigned in, pared down, and precision-tailored.
Ingwersen did what could best be described as Danish modern. Looking for a snappy white suit, dangerous micro mini, or a great shrunken bomber? He's your man. While the sleevelike leggings might be a fright on anyone but a lithe-limbed model and the big evening numbers sort of fizzled, several other after-dark looks (a shocking-pink party dress, a sensuous silken shirtdress, an elegant sequined cardigan) were elegantly effective.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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