October 06, 2007 Paris
One shouldn't read too much into the narrative, though, because Theyskens doesn't come from the older generation of theme-led designers. Instead, this collection was a reassertion of his Belgian identity. It's as if he reached a fork in his career when he arrived at Nina Ricci, deciding to take the path of underground edginess rather than Parisian chica distinct divergence from the road he took at Rochas. Now his vision skews young and urban, and includes jodhpur-ish jeans, patchworked tour T-shirts, hip baseball jackets, and a sense of working toward a new, layered assemblage of casual dressing. Up to a point, anyway. For evening, Theyskens was fully back within his familiar zone of strapless ball-gown romance. The paper-thin silver fan-pleated taffeta, twisted metallic velvet, and diaphanous chiffon poufed in back with a demi-crinoline were beautiful, if a tad familiarbut in terms of interest, what he's doing for day is the thing to watch.