Oscar de la Renta
September 09, 2007 New York
The collection itself more than lived up to any heightened expectations the change of scenery might have produced. De la Renta touched upon several of Spring's developing trendsthe safari jacket, tribal patterns and beading, strong colorwithout feeling trendy in the least. Classic is more like it, be it the perfect red wool sheath, a stunningly embroidered black-and-burgundy suit with a cropped jacket and razor-slim skirt, or a tent dress in a brown-and-cream ethnic geometric print. Only a couple of cable sweaters, worn with full pants, came off on the wrong side of the maturity/youth divide. But the designer quickly corrected that with a cardigan in of-the-moment tie-dye.
Evening was a study in elegance, whether de la Renta went understated, as he did with a sublime black silk sponge crepe gown cinched above the waist with a lizard belt, or bold. If you want drama, the show's closing numberstrapless, with a spray of glossy black feathers decorating the necklineis your dress.