September 07, 2007
"There's a sense of intuition that goes into designing clothing; you know for yourself what you want," said Alexa Adams, who, with Flora Gill, designs the self-confident new line Ohne Titel. That's German for "untitled," but judging from this polished runway debut, it's a name to be reckoned with. The duoParsons graduates who collaborated on their senior thesis and later worked together for Karl Lagerfeldbrought their own point of view to the safari theme that has been running wild since Resort. Their printed, body-conscious knits were developed after looking at tribal art, totem poles, and the graphic work of the French painter Jean Dubuffet; the accessories were raffia and rubber numbers of their own invention. Softer, but in a sculptural way, was a series of bustle-back skirts. The cream of this collection, though, was the suiting. A red draped jacket paired with wide-leg pants had an irresistible fluidity. "It's sort of cheesy, but we're into the eighties idea of clothing for working women," said Adams, who looks to have quite a promising career ahead of her.