Paul Smith Women
LONDON, September 18, 2007
By Tim Blanks
After decades of practice, Sir Paul Smith gives good sound bite. "Hockney meets Bloomsbury" was his succinct summation of his women's collection for Spring. If that evokes a mélange of primary colors and florals with a twist of haute bourgeois eccentricity, then you clearly understand Sir Paul's shorthand. The color was strongest when applied to classic shapes, as evidenced by a cornflower-blue shirtwaist dress, a green parka, and a tomato-red blouse (the matching bow tie a prissy flourish). The elongated proportions of a knee-length cable knit with a dropped half-belt suggested Bloomsbury's bohemian languor, just as a silky floor-sweeping skirt or the floral print on a kimono-ish top hinted at the gardens of Charleston, where Vanessa Bell entertained her sister Virginia Woolf and their coterie.The outfits had the artfully thrown-together quality you might find among the guests at a country house party: Formal and casual elements combined in such looks as a black velvet jacket over white cotton Bermudas, a little gray cardigan pulled over a red shirtwaist, or a blue cummerbund wrapping the waist of tiny shorts under a cardigan jacket. The same notion was elaborated on in a full white tie rig trimmed down to a shawl-collared tap suit, as well as in a rugby shirt stretched to the floor and given dress collar and cuffs. If there was a slightly random quality to the whole affair, you could argue that's always been Smith's charm.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
