From Mick Rock to Mick Jones.… Last season, Phi designer Andreas Melbostad nodded to the former's iconic photographs of glam rockers like David Bowie. Today's collection, meanwhile, owed its origins to what the designer called the "insouciant yet elegant" look of Jones and the rest of the Clash.

Melbostad made use of his considerable tailoring skills via jackets and coats in banker gray or black suiting. But punk rockers don't frequent Savile Row, do they? So he shrugged off conservatism with exaggerated proportions and layered the collection up with endless vests, skinny mesh knits, jersey tanks, striped men's shirts, and lean pants tucked into studded biker boots. As the show progressed, the rebellion grew louder—mostly in the form of zippers and other assorted hardware on bombers, cargo shorts, and skirts.

Backstage, Melbostad said that his aim was to be "urban and contemporary, rebellious yet sophisticated." But there were a few problems in the execution. It was too heavy for Spring, to begin with. And while any decent record-store clerk (there are some left, right?) can explain why glam rock and punk are diametrically opposed, this show didn't offer much sense of progression from Melbostad's layered and dark Fall collection. Reinventing the wheel every six months isn't necessary, but moving forward is.