Phi
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 8, 2007
By Meenal Mistry
From Mick Rock to Mick Jones.… Last season, Phi designer Andreas Melbostad nodded to the former's iconic photographs of glam rockers like David Bowie. Today's collection, meanwhile, owed its origins to what the designer called the "insouciant yet elegant" look of Jones and the rest of the Clash.Melbostad made use of his considerable tailoring skills via jackets and coats in banker gray or black suiting. But punk rockers don't frequent Savile Row, do they? So he shrugged off conservatism with exaggerated proportions and layered the collection up with endless vests, skinny mesh knits, jersey tanks, striped men's shirts, and lean pants tucked into studded biker boots. As the show progressed, the rebellion grew louder—mostly in the form of zippers and other assorted hardware on bombers, cargo shorts, and skirts.
Backstage, Melbostad said that his aim was to be "urban and contemporary, rebellious yet sophisticated." But there were a few problems in the execution. It was too heavy for Spring, to begin with. And while any decent record-store clerk (there are some left, right?) can explain why glam rock and punk are diametrically opposed, this show didn't offer much sense of progression from Melbostad's layered and dark Fall collection. Reinventing the wheel every six months isn't necessary, but moving forward is.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
