3.1 Phillip Lim
September 08, 2007 New York
The voyage began with his favorite model, Irina Lazareanu, in a khaki coat with epaulets (an easy best seller) over the more directional ensemble of a white shirt with an oversize tie and harem pants. From there the audience was transported in many stylistic directions, from sexy minis with exposed zips to a backless raffia cocktail dress, from a gray cashmere bandeau twinset to a Michael Jackson red leather jacket. Some looks, like a safari jacket over a pleated chiffon dress, made obvious statements about the improvisational nature of dressing on the go.
Lim's eveningwear sells like hotcakes, and he expanded on the theme with a series of dresses fashioned in the style of Madame Grès, the Parisian mistress of pleats and draping. These were a sure thing for after eight, but it would have been nice to see a newer idea.
Piece by piece, Spring offered the legions of Lim fans more of what they adore. But, taken as a whole, the message wasn't as coherent as Fall'sand awkward staging didn't help. After their loop on the sloped circular runway, the models placed themselves on a mushroom cluster of round platforms at its center. This caused a bit of confusion among the models and frustration among the photographers. Standing there, Lim's amassed crew looked like a crowd of chic strangers in an airport.